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SEIKO PROFILE SERIES: MANUAL WIND MECHANICAL MOVEMENT

As we continue our SEIKO PROFILE SERIES, today’s subject is the Grand Seiko manual wind watch. Rather than focus on one model, I'm going to provide photos of four.

In order we have SBGW033, then SBGW005 (bracelet and blue second hand), SBGW003 (blued hands and gold numerals), and SBGW001 all silver. They all feature

• light colored dials

• Applied markers

• Sword Hands

• Manual wind hacking movement 9S54A with 50-hr reserve and 20 jewels   OR

        • Manual wind hacking movement 9S64 with SPRON mainspring for 72 hour reserve and 24 jewels

• Stainless Steel case 

• Bracelet or strap with flip clasp and push-button-release

• High-edged domed Sapphire crystal(s)

• And most importantly (for some PuristS, NO Date)

The three older watches are 8-10 years old.  They been worn carefully but regularly. Only the SBGW003 has been serviced. The anniversary special is three years old and contains the newer movement.

My assumption in this article is that these pure, 3-hand watches are likely to appeal to experienced watch lovers who look closely at the subtle details.

These watches represent typical variety available from Grand Seiko. Strap, bracelet, fancy dial. Nothing extreme, flashy or “stylish”. (You can go to Credor or Galante for that kind of thing.) As the reader, do you find these watches too boring?

On most models, there is no window in the case back. Just the SBGW003 in my group got the glass treatment. What a view!

Instead, most of the time we see the Grand Seiko Lion on the highly-polished back cover.

As is the case with many Grand Seikos, the lugs tend to be drilled to enable the spring bars to be removed with no damage to the lugs. 

On the bracelet model (reminds me of a certain Rolex bracelet ...) the links are very smooth and no hairs are pulled (nor skin pinched) when wearing this watch. 

The straps and buckles vary slightly depending on your choice of model. A deployant buckle is optional at extra cost, but it's certainly one of the most uncomfortable one I've ever worn. I sold mine off quickly and stuck with the tang buckles.

Too many watches and too much time leads to too much creativity in photo-taking. I'm not sure that I would have seen all the details I love if I hadn't been playing around with this trio and the camera.

A wrist shot also highlights the crystal shape. Due to the thin case, the watches fit nicely under a tight cuff.

The very high dome on the crystal is apparent in these photos.

This angled wrist scan shows you the curvature of the very long minute and second hands, and the reflectivity of the stainless steel case. 

This is a very appealing watch. But enough of subjectivity, what about the facts?

WHAT DOES SEIKO SAY?

Seiko says this about its Grand Seiko line of watches: 

“SEIKO won every accuracy competition in Japan in the 1950's and sought new challenges on the international stage. SEIKO's application to join the Neuchatel Observatory contest in 1960's was graciously accepted, but the first results were a disaster! SEIKO finished no better than 144th. However, the results improved rapidly and, by 1968, SEIKO achieved first place in the mechanical watch category of Geneva observatory contest. The rapid development of SEIKO's mechanical watchmaking expertise made possible the creation of the Grand Seiko standard and its determination to create the best, basic watch in the world.”

Seiko says this about the manual wind movement: 

“By the mid 1990's, advances in metals, alloys, production methods and design systems made it possible for a new caliber to be developed. By the autumn of 1998, caliber 9S set a new standard for Grand Seiko's mechanical watch thanks to the latest CAD system, the latest precision engineering and the dedicated skills of SEIKO's most experienced master craftsmen. The Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio was inaugurated in Iwate prefecture, in the northern part of Japan, in 2004. This is the home of Grand Seiko's mechanical watches.

The 9S was released in 1998 — the first new Grand Seiko mechanical caliber in twenty years. It set a new standard, with cutting-edge production technology making possible a new interpretation of the traditional values of Grand Seiko.”

My SBGW001 was opened up by my watchmaker. You see the well finished inside of the case back. I was particularly impressed by the case back screws that have individually-applied o-rings.

Seiko says this about its movement's components:

“The mainspring is the driving force of a mechanical watch and SEIKO is one of a small handful of watchmakers to make its own springs, with its own alloys, in-house, and has been doing so for over 50 years. And if the mainspring is the driving force, the balance spring is the beating heart of a mechanical watch. As with mainsprings, SEIKO has been producing its own balance springs for more than 50 years.”

We see stripes and can observe that in some ways this watch is much less hand-finished than the finest Swiss watches. But for a production watch, it is no slouch. 

Seiko says this about its movement assembly process: 

“The beautiful spiral shape of the balance spring is deceptively simple. Its performance depends on the most minute and delicate adjustments. While the thickness of the spring is much less than one tenth of one millimeter in diameter, the watchmakers can see differences of 1/1000th of a millimeter in the way the spring is wound. The craftsmen and women to whom this task is entrusted make the necessary adjustments by eye, and with nothing more high tech than a pair of specially designed tweezers!”

We can see the engraving which indicates the 20 jewel count, the 6 position and temperature adjustment. 

In order get a better view of the front, we removed the bezel and crystal which are held on by four screws that go through the middle case section.

Seiko says about the movement’s testing process: 

“Grand Seiko's certification / inspection process for the mechanical caliber 9S series takes 17 days. The movement is placed in six positions and is tested at three different temperatures, and its daily variations must fall within very strict tolerances. 

The Grand Seiko standard differs from chronometer standards in two important respects. Grand Seiko tests each watch in six positions, rather than five; at three temperatures rather than two. Why? 

The Grand Seiko tests seek to replicate what happens in real life. The sixth position is the position many people leave their watch when not worn, namely with the dial and 12 o’clock position upright, and the extra temperature rating is close to body temperature. The idea is simple; to test the watch under the conditions similar to the actual usage.”

Here are the specs used for testing each movement for 17 days, and the final results for one of my watches.

ENOUGH OF THE FACTS

Getting back the the beautiful exterior, and glancing at the watches in posed scenes, they reveal the fabulous simplicity of the dial and details on the polished surfaces of the case, the dial markers and the hands. 

This is the first posed picture I took of any watch I owned, next to an overturned sterling silver tea set.

You get plenty of flash from the polishing magic in the Grand Seiko workshops. This stainless steel shines and sparkles!

Every surface seems to be polished to catch the light, any light. Look at this watch in the evening twilight on my back patio while enjoying a cool beer ...

Wow that's nice. So I brought out another and tried it on. Also a knock-out!

Am I a sucker for clean dials and blued hands? Apparently.

The price point for these watches is in the $2000-$7500 range depending on your preference for used or new. It doesn't cost very much to enjoy the beauty and accuracy of these watches. 

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